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Tumbled leather (Drummed)
Full-grain calfskin leather is the outermost layer and most prized part; its natural appearance is the result of a process called milling: a technique that reveals the leather's authentic grain and increases softness.
The leather is left inside what are called drums – large barrels where it is rotated for hours. The volume of the leather increases and its original grain is brought out. Once removed, the surface is stretched and pressed to eliminate wrinkles. Then, the artisan carefully examines the leather, selecting the perfect grain size for each individual shoe and removing any imperfections.
Tubular construction with Blake stitch
This tubular construction method produces a comfortable glove-like fit and a particularly flexible shoe, with fully hand-sewn details.
The process begins with careful study of the leather; after finding the best part, the artisan cuts and shapes it round the last to form the upper. This is then delicately hammered to smooth down the seams and soften the parts that come into contact with the foot.
The artisan envelops the last with the upper leather, creating a soft fit that’s seamless on the inside. Then, the toe box is hand-sewn with needle and thread. Finally, the shoe is fixed to the sole with an internal seam called a Blake stitch, named after the machine that makes it: the artisan guides the shoe under the needle with the skill of a true expert.
Vibram rubber lug sole
Vibram designed the lug sole in 1937, bringing together the grip of climbing shoes and the sturdiness of hiking shoes to form true Italian excellence. For this shoe, we’ve chosen a monobloc sole, durable and suitable for all terrains.
Care
We value the signs of time passing. Here’s how:
- Use a brush to get rid of dust and dirt.
- Store your shoes in a cool dry place.
- After a day of rain, let the shoes dry away from any heat sources.
- Spray deodorizer/ sanitizer on the inside of the shoes and wait a few hours before wearing them.
Take a look at our care kits: you’ll find everything you need to ensure your shoes last a lifetime. They just need a little TLC.
Design
With our boat shoe design in mind, this ankle boot was made in tumbled calfskin leather with a Vibram lug sole.
The upper part of the shoe is the same color as the sole, for a clean uniform look. The lining is in matching smooth leather.
The raw-cut leather laces are made using an artisanal technique that brings out the leather’s natural charm.
This shoe uses tubular Blake stitch construction, also known as bag construction since it involves a single piece of leather being wrapped around the last from top to bottom and sewn together like a bag. The last is the mold that forms the shape and profiles of the shoe, fundamental for the assembly phase. The ends of the leather are then sewn to the toe box and the sole is attached using a Blake stitch. The final result is an extremely soft and flexible shoe.
Made in Italy
Production is based in Montegranaro, in the Marche region, where the tradition of shoemaking has deep roots. For a product that lasts, we only select leathers that age well and put our trust in people who have been in this industry for generations. The artisans in our workshops have learned the job through family and know each and every trade secret. Just like Genesio, who cuts leather with a keen eye and extreme precision. Here are some of their stories.
US Size
Size guide
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