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Abraded leather
To get the smooth sheen you see, the leather undergoes a multi-stage treatment. First its surface is smoothed, in proper terms the grain is cleaned; then, it is brushed with abrasive wax, to give it that compact sheen. Finally, it is brushed and polished to perfection: the heat generated by friction eliminates excess wax and restores uniformity. We chose bull hide leather for this piece, because it’s thicker and more durable.
Tubular construction with Blake stitch
This tubular construction method produces a comfortable glove-like fit and a particularly flexible shoe, with fully hand-sewn details.
The process begins with careful study of the leather; after finding the best part, the artisan cuts and shapes it round the last to form the upper. This is then delicately hammered to smooth down the seams and soften the parts that come into contact with the foot.
The artisan envelops the last with the upper leather, creating a soft fit that’s seamless on the inside. Then, the toe box is hand-sewn with needle and thread. Finally, the shoe is fixed to the sole with an internal seam called a Blake stitch, named after the machine that makes it: the artisan guides the shoe under the needle with the skill of a true expert.
Leather sole
Made to last from vegetable tanned cowhide. Its edges are smoothed, polished and brushed. This traditional process requires technique and dexterity.
Care
Leather gains beauty with age, so long as it is well taken care of. Here’s how:
- Use a brush to get rid of dust.
- Use the same brush to apply a cream. If the shoe is lightly colored, you’re better off using one that’s transparent or has a neutral color.
- Wait at least 20 minutes: when the polish has dried, buff it in using a dry cloth.
- Spray a deodorizing sanitizer spray on the inside of the shoe and wait a few hours before wearing.
Take a look at our leather care kit: inside you’ll find everything you need to care for smooth leather of any color. Entirely made in Italy, naturally.
Design
A college-style loafer, low-cut with that classic biscotto shape.
College loafers may have found their fame in the 1950s, among students of the American upper class. In the slit in the front plastron, you could just about fit two cents: the cost of a call from a phone box. The rest is history, made in our artisan workshops.
The stitching around the toe box is pinched: the edges of each strip of leather are pulled together and joined without overlapping. This creates that subtle gathered look; the effect is more noticeable on smooth leather.
The leather sole is made to last. Its edges are smoothed, buffed and polished. This traditional craftsmanship technique requires time and dexterity.
Made in Italy
Production is based in Montegranaro, in the Marche region, where the tradition of shoemaking has deep roots. For a product that lasts, we only select leathers that age well and put our trust in people who have been in this industry for generations. The artisans in our workshops have learned the job through family and know each and every trade secret. Just like Genesio, who cuts leather with a keen eye and extreme precision. Here are some of their stories.
US Size
Size guide
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Filòm
Penny Loafers
Dark brown
